Draining a hot tub isn’t complicated—but doing it safely, quickly, and correctly prevents damage to pumps and heaters, avoids messy clean-up, and sets you up for crystal-clear, balanced water. If you’ve been wondering how to drain a hot tub for routine maintenance, seasonal prep, or a deep clean after cloudy or stubborn water chemistry, this guide walks you through every method (spigot, submersible pump, and siphon), what to do afterward, common mistakes to avoid, and fast troubleshooting. You’ll also learn where to discharge water legally and how often to repeat the process.
Quick Answer: The Fastest & Safest Way to Drain a Hot Tub
- Turn power off at the GFCI breaker.
- Place a submersible pump in the footwell; route the discharge hose to a legal sanitary drain (never a storm drain).
- Start the pump and monitor until nearly empty; use a wet/dry vac or towels to remove puddles.
Typical time: ~10–20 minutes with a pump; ~1–2 hours via spigot depending on tub size, hose run, and elevation.
Safety & Tools Checklist
Safety first
- Power OFF at the dedicated hot tub breaker (GFCI).
- Non-slip footwear, gloves, and eye protection.
- Keep children and pets away from cords, hoses, and open panels.
Tools & supplies
- Garden hose (fits your drain spigot)
- Submersible pump (optional, fastest) + discharge hose
- Wet/dry vacuum (optional; great for puddles and line purge)
- Microfiber cloths, soft sponge
- Non-abrasive, spa-safe cleaner (no harsh solvents or abrasives)
- Filter cleaner (spray or soak)
- Test strips or kit (pH, TA, sanitizer)
- Pre-filter (optional; reduces metals/sediment during refill)
Method 1 — Drain Using the Built-In Spigot (Most Common)
Many
outdoor spas
include a primary drain spigot and, on some models, an auxiliary/bleed spigot to clear internal lines.
Steps
- Shut off power at the breaker.
- Locate the spigot(s): often behind a panel near the base or behind a small access door.
- Attach a garden hose to the primary spigot. Hand-tighten (plastic threads—don’t over-torque).
- Route the hose to a legal drain on level or downhill ground. Avoid routing uphill—it will slow or stop flow.
- Open the spigot valve and let it drain.
- If equipped, open the auxiliary spigot near the end to empty bleed lines.
- Use a wet/dry vac or towels to remove leftover puddles in the footwell.
- Close valves when finished.
Time estimate: ~1–2 hours for most
residential spas
(varies by gallon size, hose length, and elevation).
Pros: No extra equipment, low risk.Cons: Slow; may leave water below the spigot level.
Method 2 — Drain With a Submersible Pump (Fastest)
A submersible utility pump dramatically reduces drain time and is ideal if you do this regularly.
Steps
- Power off at the breaker.
- Place pump on the lowest point (footwell) to capture the most water.
- Connect the discharge hose, routing to a sanitary drain.
- Start the pump; monitor continuously to avoid dry-running.
- As level drops, reposition to pick up remaining water—don’t run the pump dry.
- Finish with a wet/dry vac for puddles.
Time estimate: ~10–20 minutes for average tubs (larger models may take longer).
Choosing a pump
- GPM (gallons per minute): higher GPM = faster drain.
- Head height: ensure it can push water to your drain elevation.
- Hose diameter: wider hoses move more water.
Pros: Fastest, good for frequent maintenance or service calls.Cons: Requires a pump; must be monitored.
Method 3 — Siphon or Wet/Dry Vac (No Pump at Hand)
If you don’t have a pump and your spigot is slow or obstructed, a siphon works in a pinch.
Garden-hose siphon
- Submerge the entire hose to fill it with water (remove air).
- Cover one end with your thumb and move it below the water level of the tub to a lower discharge point.
- Release your thumb to start the siphon.
- Keep the outlet end lower than the water level in the spa.
Wet/dry vac assist
- Use the vac to prime the hose: suck water through until flow starts, then quickly move the outlet to the drain area.
Pros: No pump needed.Cons: Slower; can lose prime; may not reach full empty.
Where Can You Drain Hot Tub Water? (Legal & Environmental)
- Use sanitary sewer connections where permitted (utility sink, basement drain, toilet, clean-out).
- Do not discharge to storm drains—these typically flow to natural waterways.
- Lawns/landscaping: risky; sanitizer and temperature can stress plants and soil. If allowed locally, chlorine/bromine should be near zero and pH close to neutral before discharge, and flow must not cause erosion or neighbor run-off.
- Local regulations vary. Always check municipal guidelines on treated water disposal, fines, and required neutralization.
Clean & Inspect Before You Refill
With the shell empty:
- Wipe the interior with a non-abrasive, spa-safe cleaner. Avoid harsh chemicals, scouring pads, or anything that leaves residues that foam later.
- Detail the waterline to remove oils/scale.
- Rinse lightly and towel dry—don’t flood the equipment bay.
- Remove filters:
- Rinse with hose (spray from all angles).
- Deep-clean with a filter cleaner (follow label directions).
- Rinse thoroughly and allow to dry if time allows.
- Inspect components: jets, gaskets, suction covers, unions, and the cover underside (mildew, waterlogging). Replace cracked or worn parts.
Refill Like a Pro (Avoid Airlocks)
Air trapped in lines can prevent pumps from priming and may damage components if run dry.
Best practice
- Insert the hose into the filter standpipe (the hollow tube under a filter) or the manufacturer-specified fill port. This sends water directly into the plumbing, pushing air out naturally.
- Fill until water reaches the recommended level (often mid-skimmer/just above highest jet).
- Keep power OFF until completely filled.
- Check for leaks around unions and pump fittings while filling.
If you suspect an airlock
- Loosen a pump bleed screw (if present) briefly to expel air.
- “Burp” the lines by gently cycling jets only after a full fill and with supervision.
- Use a wet/dry vac to push or pull air/water through a suspected line (advanced users).
Balance Your Water After Refilling
Once refilled and leak-free:
- Power ON at the breaker; allow pumps to circulate.
- Test and adjust pH to ~7.2–7.8 and Total Alkalinity to ~80–120 ppm (follow your manufacturer/system guidance).
- Add sanitizer per your chosen system (chlorine, bromine, saltwater chlorine generator, etc.).
- Reinstall clean filters (if removed during fill).
- Run jets with air controls closed initially to reduce foaming.
- Re-test after 30–60 minutes and fine-tune.
How Often Should You Drain?
- Typical chlorine/bromine systems: every 3–4 months (heavy use or difficult source water may shorten intervals).
- Saltwater systems: often less frequent (some systems extend to ~12 months), but still monitor TDS, clarity, and sanitizer demand.
- High bather load, frequent parties, cosmetics/oils, or warm climates may require more frequent changes.
- If you struggle to maintain chemistry (chasing pH/TA, persistent cloudiness, odors), change the water—it’s faster than endlessly dosing.
Troubleshooting & Mistakes to Avoid
Common mistakes
- Forgetting to shut off power → pumps/heaters can run dry and overheat.
- Draining uphill or using a kinked hose → painfully slow or incomplete drain.
- Using harsh cleaners → damaged shell, persistent foaming.
- Draining to storm drains → potential fines/environmental harm.
- Skipping the filter clean → cloudy water returns fast.
- Refilling into the shell only (not via standpipe) → airlocks.
Quick fixes
- Slow spigot? Check hose kinks, ensure outlet is lower than tub water, open auxiliary bleed if present.
- Standing water in footwell? Wet/dry vac, then towel.
- Pump won’t prime after refill? Fill via standpipe, crack a union/bleed screw briefly to purge air (power off), then retry.
Winterization & Long Breaks
If you won’t use the spa for weeks in freezing climates:
- Fully drain, open all drains/valves, and use a wet/dry vac to blow water from jets and suction lines (through skimmer and jet bodies).
- Remove, clean, and store
filters
indoors.
- Keep
cover
sealed and locked; consider a breathable, weather-resistant secondary cover.
- If you keep it filled through winter, maintain heat/circulation and check chemistry weekly.
Brand-Specific Notes (Hot Spring®, Jacuzzi®)
Hot Spring® / HotSpring®
- Many models feature a primary and auxiliary spigot. Drain with the primary first, then open the auxiliary to clear bleed lines.
- Refilling via the filter standpipe helps prevent airlocks.
Jacuzzi® (outdoor spas) vs “Jacuzzi tubs” (indoor jetted bathtubs)
- Outdoor Jacuzzi® spas: follow the steps in this guide.
- Indoor jetted bathtubs (often called “Jacuzzi tubs” generically): these typically empty via the tub drain, and any pump/motor access will be behind an access panel. They don’t have the same filtration/sanitizer cycle as
outdoor hot tubs
.
How to Drain a Hot Tub - Frequently Asked Questions
How long does it take to drain a hot tub?
- Submersible pump: ~10–20 minutes for typical residential tubs.
- Spigot: ~1–2 hours, depending on gallons, hose length, and elevation.
- Siphon: slower and variable.
How do I drain and refill a hot tub the easy way?
Use a submersible pump to drain, clean the shell and filters, then refill via the filter standpipe to avoid airlocks, balance water, and restart circulation.
How often should I change hot tub water?
Usually every 3–4 months for chlorine/bromine systems; saltwater systems may go longer (up to ~12 months), but check clarity, TDS, and sanitizer demand.
Can I drain to my lawn?
It’s not recommended. Sanitizers and heat can harm plants/soil, and runoff can cause erosion or neighbor issues. Use a sanitary sewer where allowed and follow local rules.
What if my hot tub won’t drain or drains very slowly?
Confirm power is off, check for kinks in the hose, ensure the outlet end is lower than the tub waterline, and open any auxiliary drain. A submersible pump or wet/dry vac can speed things up.
How do I empty a hot tub for cleaning?
Shut off power; drain via spigot or pump; use a wet/dry vac for puddles; clean with non-abrasive spa cleaner; rinse, refill via standpipe, balance water, and reinstall clean filters.
What’s the best submersible pump for hot tubs?
Choose a pump with adequate GPM and head height for your discharge route; a wider hose drains faster. Monitor to avoid dry-run.
How do I drain a Hot Spring® / HotSpring® hot tub?
Use the primary spigot first, then the auxiliary to empty bleed lines. Refill through the filter standpipe to minimize airlocks.
How do I drain a Jacuzzi® tub?
For outdoor Jacuzzi® spas, follow the main steps. For indoor jetted bathtubs, open the tub drain and consult the bath’s manual for access to pumps/jets if needed.
Method Comparison Table (At-a-Glance)
|
Method
|
Tools Needed
|
Typical Time
|
Difficulty
|
Best For
|
|
Spigot (built-in)
|
Garden hose
|
1–2 hrs
|
Low
|
Most users; minimal gear
|
|
Submersible pump
|
Pump + discharge hose
|
10–20 min
|
Low-Med
|
Fastest results; frequent maintenance
|
|
Siphon / Wet-dry vac
|
Hose; vacuum (optional)
|
45–120+ min
|
Med
|
No pump available; emergency workaround
|
Conclusion & Next Steps
Now you know how to drain a hot tub safely and efficiently, how to clean and refill without airlocks, and how to balance fresh water for a perfect soak. A regular drain cycle (every few months, adjusted for use and system type) keeps water chemistry manageable, improves clarity, and extends the life of pumps, heaters, and jets.
Ready for more?
- Explore premium freestanding and jetted bathtubs, spa accessories, and maintenance guides.
- Need help selecting a submersible pump or filter care products? Check our maintenance recommendations or contact support for guidance.
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